Quinta do
Javali's Ribas Lira - a Portuguese take on the legendary Vega Sicilia
Niklas Jörgensen Livets Goda Jan 22, 2018
The first
thought that strikes you when Quinta do Javali's 2007 Ribas Lira is in the
glass? Similar to one of the biggest on the other side of the border, when
Douro becomes Duero. Certainly, there is something more in this incredibly
exciting wine, in addition to the main common denominator, the long-time on oak,
which makes one associate with the Ribera del Duero legend Vega Sicilia.
Quinta do
Javali has landed in Sweden. A relatively young property started in 2000 by
António Mendes in Cima Corgo, the most famous sub-region of Douro and home to the
main port wines. By contrast, many of the vineyards are old and António uses
the oldest vines for its Vinhas Velhas labels. Some of the oldest vines grapes
also go to a wine that stands out a little extra in Douro - Ribas Lira. The
wine spends 10 years in French 500-liter barrels.
2007 is a
great vintage in Douro and the port wines have some similarities with the famous
2011. The table wines have also proved to be well developed and belong to the
better in the last decade. 2007 Ribas Lira, of course, has the typicality of
the vintage with sun-warming fruit, but also tightness and freshness. And that
later makes us think of the legendary Vega Sicilia on the Spanish side of the
border. Both wines spend a long time in oak without losing either excitement or
freshness.
We settle
down in the bar of Livets Goda to try António's 2007 Ribas Lira. The colour
indicates a certain age in view of the brick nuance that the wine's edge has,
even though the core is deep ruby red. The bouquet immediately takes a real
grip on the tester and initially is the real power pack. But aeration causes
the wine to let go and it is becoming increasingly complex; especially when tried
a few hours later, the bouquets have developed a depth that offers everything
from tobacco, leather, spice shelf, dark berries - especially black currants
and plums - and so the salt and light smoky minerality typical of the granite
and shale rich soil in Cima Corgo. It is cautiously volatile, in an elegant
way.
The taste
is dense, full of impressions, yet harmonious in its structure. The freshness
impresses and the acid is spicy for a Douro wine, much thanks to old vines. The
flavours move from the fresh tobacco, dried figs, oolong tea and leather to
sun-dried black currants, dark plums and a touch of oriental spices. It also shows
a splash of dill when the wine is allowed to breathe for a couple of hours
further. The aftertaste is beautiful, lingering and can certainly be clocked in
about a minute if you're so excited about it. Something robust taste
impression, but the gut feeling is that it is sanded down with age. Despite the
fact that Ribas Lira has already reached the decade, this is a young wine with
a great future. The patient can certainly expect 10 years of further
development.
And it is
then, in 2028 that you set this wine next to a Vega Sicilia Unico of equal age.
Something tells us that the similarities will be more than the opposite. The
amount of 2007 Ribas Lira produced is vanishingly small and it is thus extra
fun that Quinta do Javali's Swedish importer,
Chastel Beverage, managed to get an allocation to Sweden. The wine can only be
offered to some stores but try to find an opportunity to add this wine to the
collection because it is undeniably unique in its expression.
The
Goodness Panel of Life: 94 LGP
Ribas Lira
costs 562 SEK and you will find the link to the wine here:
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