Domaine Rollin Père
et fils
Domaine Rollin seems
a bit overshadowed by the big names in Burgundy and therefore, do not receive as
much attention in comparison. But the company has continuously refined,
improved and sharpened its production year after year and thus we also have
wines that have very good quality at very reasonable prices.
I sat down with
my sommelier world champion friend Andreas Larsson to go through the new
vintage of some of the firm's wines. Stable, was the word...
By Anders Enquist
Domain Rollin
has its beginnings with Raymond Rollin, who was a vineyard worker at another
winery in the village, just like his father before him. Despite a modest
income, Raymond over the years acquired several vineyards which he then
cultivated outside his working hours.
His son Maurice
then started his own business in 1955 as a negociant and with the firm's own plots,
and started commercializing a part of the production.
At the same
time, they undertook the management of other vineyards on a rental basis and continued
to acquire new vineyards. In 1976 Maurice son Rémi joined the business and in
the early 1980s they planted new stocks in different vineyards. Since the
mid-1990s, all production is under its own label and today the domain manages
14 hectares of vineyards in five different villages, or municipalities in Côte
de Beaune and produces 14 appellations. It is in the family home in Pernand
Vergelesses that they vinify all the wines, and all the work from vineyards to
final storage is done by the domain's own team.
2017 Corton
Charlemagne Grand Cru
927 KR / 94 LGP
Anders Enquist about the wine: The earthy limestone, over thin
limestone feels very fine in the wine, as does the age of the vines. It creates
a deep and long taste. The buttery hint sits where it should, like the winds of
white flowers and small-scented citrus fruit. A fine spiciness rests in the
wine and we have a fresh finish with good spice and minerality.
Andreas Larsson about the wine: There is an appellation I usually
find blind in Burgundy for its combination of rockiness, freshness and fruit, a
wine that is wonderfully pure and ages better than most - Corton-Charlemagne of
course. A perfect example, in this case with classy scent, cool stone fruit
with lightly roasted hazelnuts, ripe citrus, nice oak and a powerful yet
healthy structure with wonderful length and a saliva-exuding finish. A wine
that truly deserves its grand cru status.
One part of this steeply sloping
vineyard has southern exposure above the village of Alex-Corton and was planted
mainly in 1976. The other part is located in Pernand-Vergelesses at the top
with southwestern exposure and was planted in 1948. The wine matures on the lees
about 11-13 months in barriques of which 50% new.
2017 Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous
Frétille
557 KR /
92 LGP
Anders Enquist about
the wine: A balanced and complex wine with nicely hinted exotic fruit with white
peach and pineapple in the dominating citrus fruit. Crisp, but at the same time
slightly caressing in the texture, which gives the wine a glossy elegant feel.
Beautiful!
Andreas Larsson
about the wine: Ripe fruit, fresh pineapple, floral and more plump
but with a well-preserved freshness with fine viscous texture and serious
length, the oak discreet in the background.
Steep south-facing position above
Pernand Vergelesses. Transparent limestone clay with small stones and
limestone. The majority planted in the late 80's. Hand harvesting, slow grape
pressing and natural fermentation in oak barrels, of which 30% are new.
Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally during winter. The wine matures on the
lees about 11-13 months in barriques of which 30% new.
2017 Pernand Vergelesses Les Cloux
NR 74915
/ 380 KR / 92 LGP
Anders Enquist about
the wine: Concentrated with fresh citrus fruit where slightly exotic elements
gives a wider nuance. Good minerality in round structure which at the same time
has a tight elegance. Sensual!
Andreas Larsson
about the wine: Relatively similar to the wine above, tight, fresh
and elegant fruit with chalky elements, but with slightly more smoke and meatiness
in a positive way. Tight and long finish.
Vineyard located with a south-eastern
exposure on a slope 350 meters above sea level, well protected from winds which
mean that this part is always warmer in summer. The wine matures on the lees
about 10-12 months in barriques of which 20% new.
2017 Bourgogne
Aligoté
NR 72732 / 195 KR / 88 LGP
Anders Enquist about
the wine: Driven wine with pure, fresh, elegant citrus fruit and winds of white
flowers. In conclusion, the wine shows that there is power in the ground and we
have a very competent and good Aligoté in our glasses. A good example of the
need for a "white everyday wine". For food, or just as company.
Andreas Larsson
about the wine: Clean, fresh and distinct with youthful citrus and
almond tones, classic dry with a good bite and vigor.
The lots are located in north-west
exposure on the Corton hill. Lean soil, chalky limestone with clay. Half of the
vines are more than 50 years old. The grapes must be fermented in steel tanks
without yeast supplement and with controlled temperature. Natural malolactic
fermentation during the winter, the wine is then allowed to mature on its lees
until spring when final blending and bottling takes place.
NR 73319
/ 289 KR / 91 LGP
Anders Enquist about
the wine: Round, rich structure with vibrating, integrated minerality. The yellow
citrus fruit has nice apricot and orange hues and it rests a youthful freshness
in the wine which appears distinct and ripe. A very good Bourgogne blanc!
Andreas Larsson
about the wine: Stylish scent with nicely balanced barrels,
hazelnuts, lemongrass and light stone fruit. Classic dry and positive tight
with nice length and nicely embedded oak.
A cuvée with different locations,
mostly eastern exposure, on the slopes of the appellation. Transparent chalky
white limestone clay. The wine matures on the lees about 10-12 months in
barriques of which 10% new.
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